The Science and Culture of Surfing

This volume explores all aspects of surfing from the underlying physics of waves, the shape of wave breaks through to the development of surf culture and its influence on society. It explores the links between science and engineering with arts, sociology and economics, all through the lens of surfing. The book provides the one-stop location of knowledge on this global sport, bringing together the leading researchers in the field in a coherent framework. The book will appeal to undergraduate students and the general public, and will cater to readers from all backgrounds due to its transdisciplinary reach.